Search Results for: KWA SR7

KWA SR7 1 YEAR Review


KWA SR7 1 YEAR Review |
(affiliate links included)

I bought my KWA SR7 last September from for $270.  After using it for a full year of airsofting, and obtaining a good amount of experience with it, I want to share my thoughts on this weapon.

The Way I Run It:

Before we hop into my thoughts, I want to explain how I run my SR7 so you can get an idea of what the performance is like.

  • I use a 9.6v NiMH battery,which gives me about 16 RPS and a fair trigger response.
  • I run KWA K120 mid cap magazines for guaranteed feeding and quality construction.
  • I’ve mounted a Sightmark Reflex Red Dot for faster target acquisition in dark CQB environments.
  • I have a few ladder rail covers installed to keep my hands off the bare metal of the RIS.  I have used a grip pod with the SR7 and found it to be a useful tool for setting down the weapon in between games, and for use as a hand rest (although I will often just use the mag well).

Now, onto my thoughts about the SR7.


KWA is known for having great performance right out of the box.  The manufacturer uses a 6.05mm Tight Bore Barrel (TBB) for better accuracy, 2nd Generation (2g) hop up system for better overall range and accuracy, and the 2nd Generation Extreme (2gx) gearbox with proprietary parts for enhanced reliability and power.

I’ve found that this system works like it was designed.  My SR7 gets 355 FPS (which has settled into the 335 range over time) with 0.20g BBs and has an effective range (can hit a man sized target) of 125 feet on semi auto.  Though, most of the time, I only use the KWA at CQB fields where the maximum range is 75 feet or so.

My SR7 has performed very admirably over the course of the past year.  I’ve had no problem making a multitude of mid range kills, and rocking it outdoors.



Things I Like:

There is a lot to like about the SR7.  Here are some of the top things I enjoy about it:

Crane Stock: The fins that hold the stock plate on are solid and should last a long time.  The battery compartment inside is intelligently designed with space for a nunchuck NiMH or brick style LiPo battery. The fuse is exposed and fitted into a special compartment in the stock, so it is easy to check and replace (although I’ve never needed to yet).

Free Float RIS:  The rail is easy to use, has zero wobble, and fits everything I need.  It was a big upgrade over the two piece, wobbly rail on my JG M4 RIS.

Sound:  The SR7 makes an awesome sound!  Its powerful “clunk” (for lack of a better word) scares the tar out of those high pitched, whiny guns you find elsewhere! 😉


Things I Haven’t Liked:

There have been a few things that I haven’t liked (and may never come to like) while using the SR7.  Here they are:

Proprietary Parts: KWA is known for using proprietary parts in their guns.  This is designed to make the AEG perform better overall, but it can make finding replacement parts difficult.  I personally haven’t needed to break open my SR7 since everything is working fine, but it is an aspect that I would like to point out for those who plan to upgrade later.

Hop Up Movement:  When I close the fake bolt after adjusting the hop up, it tends to shift the setting.  This is a bit annoying, and requires some work to prevent.  A rotary hop up would solve this issue, but since the 2-piece hop up is somewhat proprietary, I haven’t tried to replace it.

Triangle Front Sight:  I like the look and function of flip up sights better than the traditional triangle sight.  They’re less intrusive when using a red dot and tend to look better.


My SR7 has had a few quirks and hiccups since I’ve owned it.  Nothing major, but worth noting.

  • The range of the SR7 seems to significantly decrease when the battery power is low.  This may be due to a case of double feeding and some issues with the bucking (which I may need to replace soon).  Although this is a bit annoying, at least I always know when the battery is low!   🙂


  • The selector switch on the side of the gun sometimes moves and cause the gun to switch fire modes.  This is a somewhat common issue with airsoft guns and is easy to fix in-game.  A stiffer selector switch on upcoming models would be appreciated.


  • One of the issues that all Version 2 gearboxes have is what I call semi auto lock up.  The cut off lever decides to cause issues occasionally and make the trigger “lock”, keeping the gun from firing.  I’ve only had this issue once or twice in the past year.  All you have to do is switch the gun to full auto, fire a couple of rounds, and you should be back in business.  This issue can’t be permanently fixed without removing the cut off lever and installing a MOSFET, but it isn’t a big enough issue to make me break down and get one yet.


  • The SR7 doesn’t like Elite Force 140 round Mid Caps (AirRattle sent some free with the gun).  I have found that I can insert the Elite Force mag and the KWA will fling the BBs about 3 feet out the barrel.   After ejecting the SAME MAGAZINE and putting it back in, the SR7 works normally!  Still scratching my head on this one….


Overall the SR7 is still doing its job of sending enemies to respawn after a year of use.  I look forward to using it in the year to come!

If you have any questions about the SR7, or airsoft in general, leave a comment!  If you liked this post, be sure to use the share buttons to let all your friends know that you’re an Airsoft Warrior!  To learn more about the KWA SR7, check out my internal and external reviews.


Peak Performance: Cleaning Your Airsoft M4 Inner Barrel (KWA SR7)



Peak Performance: Cleaning Your Airsoft M4 Inner Barrel (KWA SR7) |

One of the most important parts of keeping your AEG at the peak of its performance is cleaning and maintaining the inner barrel.  The inner barrel is responsible for stabilizing the BB as it travels out of the AEG.

If the inner barrel is dirty or wet it can cause your accuracy to decrease.  If your shots are flying to the left or right, this is most likely due to the inner barrel being dirty.

In the below video, I’ll explain how to properly disassemble and clean the inner barrel on your M4 AEG (I don’t have an AK style AEG to demonstrate on at this time.  If I acquire one, I will try to do a video on it as well).

In the video I will:
– Give you a list of equipment you’ll need.
– Talk about the debate behind using oil to clean your inner barrel.
– Demonstrate disassembling the upper receiver and removing the hop up unit and inner barrel.
– Show you how to clean the inner barrel.
– Reassemble the gun.

Here is a list of the items you will need to clean your AEG’s inner barrel:
– Operator’s Manual
– Battery
– Cleaning and Unjamming Rod
– Gun Cleaning Patches
– Pen Light
– Permanent Marker
– Tools for removing the rear body pin (like a rubber mallet and Allen keys)

Please Note: I recommend removing all of your accessories (i.e. red dots, 1 point slings, etc.) so they don’t get in the way during the cleaning process.

I hope this video gives you the information you need to keep your inner barrel well maintained; and keep your AEG performing at its peak.  Enjoy!

(If you are an email subscriber, click HERE to watch the video on

Here are some links to check out if you want to know more about maintaining your AEG’s inner barrel:

How To Clean Your KWA Inner Barrel, Hop Up, and Bucking (from the KWA USA Forum) YouTube- The Training Center: Cleaning Your Airsoft Inner Barrel
KWA SR7 Operator’s Manuel (from the KWA USA website)


KWA SR7- Coming Soon To!


KWA SR7- Coming Soon To! |

I recently purchased a KWA KM4 SR7 (also known as the KWA SR7, KWA SR7 “Devgru”, etc.).  For those warriors that haven’t heard of KWA Performance Industries or want to know more about them I recommend checking out their website.  You can find the link HERE.

KWA is known for producing quality airsoft weaponry that is used by police for training purposes.  Due to this reputation, you can imagine that KWA is also known for reliability and realism.  This means big things for any serious airsofter.

My goal is to give warriors the best and most comprehensive reviews on gear I can.  This requires me to thoroughly test all of the gear I review in airsoft combat until I am sure of whether it meets, or fails, Airsoft Warrior standards.  After I have had a chance to test the KWA KM4 SR7 out and have gotten plenty of battle action with it, I will be reviewing it here on

I plan on doing a 3-4 part series of posts/videos on the KWA SR7 to give you guys as much info on it as I can.  Stay tuned for the upcoming review.



KWA KM4 SR7 Internals


KWA KM4 SR7 Internals |

(This is the second post in a series on the SR7.  To see the first post click HERE.)

Arguably, the most important part of any airsoft gun is the internals.  The internals are what allows the airsoft gun to engage other players; and be reliable and effective on the battlefield.  Different gearbox designs (Version 2, Version 3, etc.) each have their strong and weak points when it comes to their internals.

The most vulnerable part of most gearboxes are the shell.  The shell encases all of the parts inside of the gearbox.  It also absorbs the impact causes by the pounding of the piston.  This can cause the shell to crack.  Other common airsoft internal issues include, pistons stripping, teeth on the gears breaking, and trigger contacts frying.

Most of the time, if you want to solve these issues yourself, or if you want improved the performance of your AEG you have to spend money on aftermarket parts and potentially hire a tech to install your new parts.  This can add up to quite a bit of money very quickly.

KWA Performance Industries wanted to solve the common internal issues (as well as less common ones); and give airsofters excellent performance right out of the box, by designing their internals to function as flawlessly as possible.  Their answer to internal and performance issues was the 2nd Generation Extreme Gearbox and the 2nd Generation Hop Up.

(Note: I personally have not opened up my KWA’s gearbox.  I can be a bit fumble fingered at times; and the internals don’t need to be upgraded anyway.  I got the internal parts information from several good sources.  You can find an older post from the KWA forum HERE, that lists the parts and compares them to the 1st generation KWA gearbox.  HERE is a list of all the parts you can purchase for the SR7 direct from the KWA website.  Also, check out this video from AirsoftGI to get more information on the 2GX gearbox.  I will be listing the internal parts and my thoughts on how they improve the KWA SR7 below.)

Let’s take a look at the 2nd Generation Extreme Gearbox:

Completely reinforced gearbox shell- KWA reinforced the gearbox shell, inside and out, to prevent gearbox cracking caused by the relentless pounding of the piston on the front of the shell.  They also reinforced the trigger post (This is the piece that sheared off inside my JG M4 CQB during the Tech Saga), by almost doubling the size and sloping the base for more surface contact.  You won’t have to worry about any issues there.  They also reinforced around the anti-reversal latch.

9 mm Ball Bearing Metal Bushings- These ball bearing bushings reduce friction inside the gearbox resulting in a higher rate of fire and a better gearbox reliability.  They are a nice, large, 9 mm size which gives them better strength.  Although you sacrifice some reliability that regular bushings offer, due to the lower FPS (therefor less tension on the bushings from the gears rotating) of the SR7, it’s not an issue.

Metal Air Nozzle (no O-ring)- The metal construction is a nice upgrade from your standard Ploy Carbonate nozzle.  An O-ring would be nice to provide an even better air seal; but the KWA already has one of the best compression systems on the market right out of the box.

Ported Metal Cylinder- It is ported to help give the SR7 it CQB FPS.

Poly Carbonate/Brass Cylinder Head (single O-ring)- A basic cylinder head.  An CNC aluminum head ($15+) with Sorbothane padding ($5) for corrected Angle Of Engagement (AOE) with the piston, would be a way to improve this component later.

Aluminum Piston Head (non ported/single O-ring)- Its aluminum construction will last a long time.  To my knowledge it is not ball bearing.

Poly Carbonate Piston- The last tooth is heat treated metal for extra strength.  The pick up tooth (the first tooth to make contact with the gears) is fully reinforced.  The second tooth is not removed.

M100 Spring- The M100 spring is just right for the SR7.  It gives CQB FPS and less wear on the internals due to less tension from the spring.  It also appears to have variable pitch for even smoother operation.

Ball Bearing Metal Spring Guide- The ball bearings makes the compression system run smoother because the spring is able to twist on itself, reducing tension.

Heat Treated Metal Gears-  The heat treating process strengthens the gears and reduces wear on them.  More strength equals less issues.

Metal Cut Off Lever- Your standard cut off lever.

Selector Plate- Standard.  Has an electrical cut off plate to give you enhanced safety.

Trigger Switch Assembly- Silver plated for better trigger response and less resistance from the wires.  Looks like it has a heat treated spring for extra strength.  I would recommend getting a Mosfet for longer contact life, especially if you are going to use a lipo.

Metal Trigger- Standard.  Trigger pull is stiffer than you find on some AEGs.  It is closer to the real deal.

Wire Set- Silver plated for better trigger response and less resistance.

Anti Reversal Latch- Heat treated for strength.

KWA KM4 SR7 Hop Up |

Now for the 2nd Generation Hop Up:

The 2nd Generation Hop Up is a two piece unit, made out of a nice polymer.  It has the same texture as the crane stock’s polymer.  (I found it interesting that they continued the texture of the polymer to the inside of the gun.)

It is easy to adjust and my hop up setting stays in place during a game.

The best part of the 2G Hop Up is the hop up nub.  It has two points of contact (3 points when you count the bottom of the hop up bucking).  With the two points of contact from the nub you will encounter less “flyers” and better accuracy at longer ranges.  I have pitted the SR7 against field AEGs with longer barrels and higher FPS and have done just fine.  I can get the 2G Hop Up to put a 0.25g bb out to 120 feet (with the bb having an almost flat flight path till the last 10 feet) and hit a man sized target after adjusting for wind shift.  That is very good for a “CQB” AEG! 

I hope that this post has given you a solid over view of the KWA SR7’s internal make up.  The internals of the SR7 were the main reason I purchased one.  I was very impressed by the well designed and well constructed 2GX gearbox and 2G hop up.  If you are looking for a very well built gearbox and excellent internals (without needing any upgrades), be sure to check out the KWA SR7.





Introducing The KWA KM4 SR7 “Devgru”


Introducing The KWA KM4 SR7 Devgru |
I recently purchased a KWA KM4 SR7 “Devgru”.  I wanted the reliability and battlefield prowess of a KWA.  So I purchased one from  It was the best deal I found because they include 3 Elite Force 140 round mid cap magazines and I was able to get 10% off!

In the below post and video, I’ll be introducing you to the SR7 and some of the features it has.  We will focus mainly on the externals in this post.  Upcoming posts and videos will include more information on the internals and function of the gun on the battlefield.

Here are some specs on the SR7 (per my testing and the manufacture’s specs):

Manufacturer: KWA Performance Industries
Length: 28″ Retracted/ 31″ Extended
Weight: approx. 6.3 lbs (I believe that this the unloaded weight.  It is a solid CQB gun.)
FPS (with 0.20g bbs): approx. 350 with no hop-up.  With my hop up adjusted for 0.25g bbs with a flat flight path and a range of 120 ft, it is about 330 FPS with 0.20g bbs (and 305 FPS with 0.25g bbs).
Gearbox: 2nd Generation Extreme (2GX)
Hop Up: 2nd Generation (2G) with two points of contact for better accuracy

In the box you get:
– KWA KM4 SR7 “Devgru”
– One K120 Mid Cap (120 round capacity)- Click HERE to compare to the price on Amazon.
– Barrel Cover (red color)
– KWA Manuel (in good English with great diagrams)
– KWA warranty sheet and the KWA lipo battery information sheet
– Two Allen wrenches (for removing the body pins)
– Front sight adjustment tool

Below is a video of the SR7 from the Airsoft Warrior YouTube Channel:
(If you are an email subscriber click here to watch the video on

In Depth Features of the SR7 (from tip to tail):
(All parts are matte black, except where noted)


KWA SR7 Free Float Rail |

Forward of the receiver:
Flash Hider- Metal/bright orange- some of the paint has nicked off as I have battled.
Barrel- Metal/One piece
Front Sight- Triangle style/Front sling swivel attached- I wish the SR7 had a removable sight (like on the SR10) to make mounting and sighting in optics easier; but you could always install one later.  The sling swivel is a bit noisy as it hits the RIS.
Gas Tube- Metal/Silver color- supports the free float rail system
RIS- 7 inch/Free float/picatinny/15 slots per side- I have heard that you can transfer this RIS to a real AR if you wanted to. Each slot on the rail is labeled.
Delta Ring- Metal/Screw on- This delta ring is not like the one you find on an airsoft gun with a two piece RIS system. I like its unique look.

KWA SR7 Receiver |

Upper and Lower Receiver- Metal/KWA Tradmarks/Unique serial number- The body feels very sturdy.
Magazine Release- Polymer/Concave- Good ergonomics.  Non Ambidextrous.  One thing I found strange, the mag can be pressed in after it has locked into the mag catch.  This creates a clicking sound when the mag is pressed up.  It may be part of the design, since the Chief’s SR7 does the same.  I have tested several different types of mags and get the same sound.  It doesn’t bother me, I just wish I could figure out why it does it and if it helps the gun’s function.
Bolt and Dust Cover- Polymer/Black Bolt/Gray Dust Cover
Forward Assist- Metal/Gray Button- The forward assist has no effect on the weapon; but does press in and spring back.
Bolt Catch- Polymer/Gray- The bolt catch is non functional.
Fire Selector- Polymer/Gray- It is very nice and crisp.  The fire selection labels are stamped into the lower receiver; but not painted in (which I like).  Non Ambidextrous.
Pistol Grip- Polymer/Textured- The vents on the bottom do not go all the way through to the motor compartment.  The motor height adjustment screw (gold colored) can be adjusted with a flat head screwdriver.
Top Rail- Metal/13 slots- with the removable, rear sight on you will have 10 slots open for optics.
Rear Sight- Metal/Removable/Adjustable for wind-age and elevation using knobs- Clicks are audible and can be felt.  It feels very sturdy.  It almost seems that they integrated a magnet into it to give an even better connection to the top rail.
Charging Handle- Metal- Not much to say about it.  It does stick sometimes when you pull it back.  This may be due to the reinforcement of the gearbox shell.

KWA SR7 Crane Stock |

Behind the receiver:
One Point Sling Mount- Metal/One on each side
Buffer Tube- Metal- It does not have numbers to indicate the position of the stock.
Crane Stock- Polymer/Light Texturing/6 position/Hole on top to show numbers on buffer tube (but the buffer tube is not numbered)- Very nice and easy to adjust due to the spiral wiring inside.  Fuse is easy to check and change since it is integrated into the stock. The stock will fit a 9.6v 1600mAh Nunchuck Battery easily.
Stock Plate: Polymer/Textured/1.5 inches wide at back  – Very well designed.  The fins on the side prevent them from breaking as easily as some other stock plates do.  The stock plate is designed to fit a lipo battery inside of it.

I hope this overview helps you to better understand the SR7.  If you have any questions, comment them below.  Stay tuned for the upcoming posts and videos!





Tac Shack: Installing A Crane Stock Battery


TAC Shack: Installing A Crane Stock Battery |

In this Tac Shack video, we’ll look at how to install a crane stock battery into your AEG.  I’ve included some helpful tips to make it a lot easier and get you up and gunning as fast as possible!




The battery used in this video is a Tenergy 9.6V nunchuck battery.  This is a great battery used by many airsofters due to it featuring a solid amount of power, no “battery memory” to reduce performance, and being easy to fit in most crane stocks!

The gun used is a KWA SR7.  Its crane stock is very similar to most generic crane stocks in size.  The main difference is the stock plate attachment, which varies from gun to gun.  Be sure to read your manual before attempting to install the crane stock battery.


Let the Airsoft Warrior Community know what type of battery you use in your AEG in the comments.  Be sure to share any tips you have for installing batteries into airsoft guns as well!


Why You Should Switch To 0.25g BBs


Why You Should Switch To 0.25g BBs |


When I first started playing airsoft, I learned that the best BB to use is one that weighs at least 0.20 grams, is white, and is seamless.  This allows the BB to get improved range, be easy to see so you can adjust your aim, and won’t jam the gun (which can happen with the BBs you find at your local sporting goods store).  I also discovered that the most common BBs around are 0.12g and 0.20g.

I used to buy only 0.20g BBs in all my airsoft weapons.  After a couple of years of using them in my weapons, I learned that there were other, better options for my weaponry.

Although most airsofters are satisfied with using 0.20g BBs in every weapon they own, you can get a lot more out of your games if you select BBs that best fit the FPS of your weapon and the goal of your mission.

I primarily use 0.25g BBs in my weapons (including a 350 FPS, KWA SR7 designed for CQB).  Although I could achieve similar accuracy/range with 0.20g BB while playing CQB games, the extra 0.05 grams give me an advantage while battling outdoors that I would lose if I stuck with a standard 0.20g BB.  Here is a few reasons why I made the switch-

Better Accuracy:

Physics dictate that the heavier a BB, the better it resists the effects of cross wind and other environmental factors.  This significantly increases accuracy in outdoor battles, giving you the edge.


Greater Effective Range:

My CQB gun shoots at 350-355 FPS with 0.20g BBs.  With 0.25g, I get around 320-330 FPS.  This may appear to be a disadvantage at first look.  Less FPS ought to equal less range, right?

While it’s true that the BB will have less speed when going out the barrel, it will have the same kinetic energy (the amount of energy stored during acceleration), aka Joules, as a 0.20g BB in most airsoft weapons.  The heavier BB will gain an increased momentum, which will result in increased accuracy and yield a better effective range (the distance a BB will travel forward while still being accurate).


One Myth About 0.25g BBs


“They Are Harder Hitting”

Since the same energy is stored in the heavier BB as a lighter one, it will not transfer more energy to the target it hits.  It won’t hurt enemy players anymore than normal BBs.  The only way you could increase hitting power of your airsoft gun with BBs would be because you’re using too heavy of a BB (say 0.40g in airsoft gun that fires 350 FPS with 0.20g gun).  This would reduce the kinetic energy (Joules), meaning less hitting power (or “punch”) with each shot.  Reducing BB weight to a 0.25g would increase your kinetic energy.


So you’ll gain an increase in accuracy and better effective range with each shot if you use 0.25g BBs instead of 0.20g.

Now before you run out and buy a bag of 0.25g BBs, make sure you have the right weapon to handle the higher weight.  You’ll need to have a airsoft gun with a velocity of around 350 FPS with 0.20g BBs and a good hop up system to take advantage of the benefits of the heavier BB.  Otherwise, your weapon will just lose range (and the effects of increased accuracy aren’t too noticeable at 15 feet!).

Check out my “Picking The Right Pellets Of Pain (aka BBs)” post for more information on picking the right BB weight for your gun.


Let me know what weight of BB you use on the field and how it improves your game in the comments.  Share this post with your battle buddies and find out what type of BBs they use!


Airsoft Tulsa Indoor Gameplay: SAFETY KILL STREAK!


Airsoft Tulsa Indoor- Safety Kill Streak! |

(affiliate links)

One of the most hated rules in airsoft is the “safety kill”.  In my “Safety Kills: The Unfortunate Truth” post, I explain some of the reasons why there is so much controversy surrounding this topic.  But, since I do my best to abide by the ruleset of every field I visit, I use it when I have to.  Airsoft Tulsa requires the use of safety kills within 10 feet, and I used this rule to rack up a nice safety kill streak on some unsuspecting players!  I hope you enjoy!




Numbers Change The Field

I’m used to playing at Airsoft Tulsa Indoor with 10-12 other players.  On this night, there were 16+ players on the field.  This definitely changed the tactics and how I moved around the field.  With multiple enemy players ready to line up their sights on me at any given time, snap shooting and “camping” on a certain pieces of cover became the name of the game.  Often times, I needed to spread out from other team members to provide an effective defense or to have room to make a quick offense move.

Don’t fall into the trap of using the same positions or tactics at a field just because it worked before.  Take into account how various numbers of players will change a field when you’re planning tactics before a game.


Keep Your Ears Open and Listen To The Refs

You will notice at (time) that an enemy player can’t hear me attempt a safety kill on him due to his laser focus on the rest of my team.  I often find that I miss information or commands my team tries to provide because of this battlefield “tunnel vision”.  Try to keep your ears open and scan the field with your eyes to stay in the whole battle and not just in your own little corner of it.

One way to stay aware is to listen to the refs and use what they tell you for more than just finding out if you’re hit or if the game is over.  The refs at Airsoft Tulsa do a good job of providing information on the condition of the field and the players on it.  During the game they will give you information on who is trying to claim an objective or let you know if a player is out.  Listen to the refs at your local field and try to use any information they give you to increase your battlefield awareness on the field.


Ditching Your Tac Vest

This particular night, I decided to leave my chest harness at the staging area and wear a MOLLE drop leg platform with a MOLLE magazine pouch capable of carrying up to 6 M4 mags.

I wanted to try out this system to see if it would improve my speed, reduce fatigue after the game, and be a good option for some one that wanted to run a private military contractor (PMC) load out.  I found its simplicity to be a good thing.  I only had the gear I needed on me, reducing the time I spent through my gear in between games.  Although I don’t think it significantly reduce fatigue (which is mostly due to the amount of running to cover and crouching I do during a game), I do think that I had a slight increase in overall speed and that it would work great for a player that wants an inexpensive set up for their PMC load out.


As stated above, I decided not to use my standard Lancer Tactical Chest Rig, and instead used just my Condor MOLLE Drop Leg Platform with a MOLLE 6 M4 Mag Pouch.  I also used my Condor Dump Pouch to hold my empty magazines.  My primary weapon was a KWA SR7 fed by K120 Mid Caps and fueled with a Tenergy 9.6V Nunchuck Battery.


Thank you for reading!  Be sure to leave any of your thoughts on this post in the comments.  If you enjoyed the video, make sure to give it a like and also subscribe to Airsoft Warrior TV to stay up to date and help the airsoft community find out about these resources.


Why You Should Own An Airsoft Sidearm (But Don’t Need One!)


Why You Should Own An Airsoft Sidearm (But Don't Need One!) |
(affiliate links included)

Airsofters love their sidearms.  All you have to do to realize this fact is look at the wide selection of pistols that can cost as much, if not more than, a primary airsoft gun.

But, if you don’t own one, you may be wondering if it’s worth the money to invest in a sidearm (not to mention spending the time required to master the different methods of using it).  I hope I can answer that question in this post.  If you already own a sidearm, consider the points I make in this post to determine whether you really need to carry it (and use green gas or CO2) every time you play.

Before we hop into this post, I want to make sure that everyone understands that pistols are NOT the only sidearm out there.  Everything from the TF11 (based on the MAC11) to the MP9 or VZ-61 Scorpion are available for purchase in an airsoft variant.  You can also get conversion kits to make a pistol into a carbine-style weapon.  They each have their benefits and disadvantages on the field, but are important options to consider when purchasing, or upgrading, a sidearm.


Why You Should Own A Sidearm

The first step to understanding the airsoft sidearm is to understand why these sidearms even exist.

Although sidearms have been around for hundreds of years, they serve a tactical purpose on the modern battlefield that goes deeper than being just a “backup” weapon.  Sidearms serve the purpose of defending operators from close quarters assaults when their primary weapon isn’t suitable.  They give the operator a second, potentially higher rate of fire option (especially for snipers) when it comes to sending rounds down range, as well as letting the operators stay in the fight when their primary goes awry (which always seems to happen at the worst of times).

Sidearms are also more maneuverable than most primary airsoft weapons.  For example, a DMR will never be as easy to run-and-gun with as a pistol or other lightweight sidearm.

Shooting offhand (using your non-dominant side to shoot around a corner or bunker) is also made much easier with a pistol because there’s no need to switch the weapon to a different shoulder and spend time lining up your sights.

And last, but not least, pistols are COOL!  Running through a room at your local field, dual wielding pistols with extended mags and silencers couldn’t be cooler (or more intimidating if you’re good with them!).

Entry level sidearms can be bought for as little as $35, making them a lot cheaper than buying another primary weapon.

(Note: If you choose a pistol as your sidearm, be sure that it’s gas operated (most electric and spring pistols are useless for competitive airsoft games due to low FPS and unreliability).  CO2 cartridges are easy to find at sporting goods stores, while green gas allows you to get lower FPS levels for CQB games.)

So, sidearms are great because they give you options on the field, can be more effective in CQBlook cool when used properly, and are relatively inexpensive.  Sounds like a good investment, right?  But, this post wouldn’t be complete if I didn’t explain….


Why You Don’t Need A Sidearm

When I airsoft at a field, I don’t carry a sidearm on me most of the time.  Here’s why:

I often play with a CQB-legal, primary weapon (KWA SR7) at CQB fields.  My primary weapon has 8+ TIMES the capacity as my sidearm’s (in this case a pistol) magazine when I use my K120 (120 round) mid caps.  My primary’s range will never be matched by a standard sidearm, and the Rate Of Fire (ROF) is as good on semi auto as a gas pistol (because I use 9.6v batteries) and far exceeds my pistol’s ROF when on full auto.  The stock and red dot sight system allow me to be more accurate than I could be with a sidearm; and the cost to BB ratio is much lower than if I was using CO2 cartridges rather than rechargeable batteries.

The only time I really see airsofters whip out a sidearm during a game is if their primary is down, the scenario requires it, or if they just want to have fun and add an extra challenge.

I have rarely been in a situation where I considered switching to a sidearm during a game because it would be more effective.  Pistols just can’t match the abilities of a solid primary weapon.

Now, of course, there are exceptions.  A KWA KMP9 has a 48 round magazine, a stock, and the ability to mount optics for better aiming.  But with all of these features, it almost becomes a second primary and not a backup sidearm.  The MP9 is better suited for use at fields that require a different FPS for indoor and outdoor play and you want to have a more powerful outdoor gun.


So in conclusion, consider whether you need a sidearm for every battle or scenario.  If you can get tools to fix your primary weaponry easily, your primary is suitable for almost all combat situations you’re likely to encounter, and the field doesn’t require a sidearm (for FPS or scenario reasons), you may be able to leave it at the staging area as a backup and save money on gas.  Let me know in the comments why you would leave behind, or carry, a sidearm with you on the field!


Using A CQB Gun For Field Battles


Using a CQB Gun for Field Battles |
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One of the questions I get asked by other players is “Do I need to buy an outdoor gun and a CQB gun?”.  A common belief is that each of these weapon systems are necessary to enjoy various fields and combat environments.  I currently use a KWA SR7.  This weapon isn’t a big, DMR-style gun, doesn’t have 400+ FPS, and will never have the same range as an airsoft sniper rifle.


I still use it for field, and woodland, battles.  It performs on the field as well as at the short ranges of a CQB battle, due to the way I use it.

In order to use a CQB weapon on the field, you need to implement some basic tactics to keep yourself effective while in battle.  Here are some tactics that I use when I take my SR7 to a field game.


Know The Range

Oftentimes, airsofters don’t fully appreciate the short range that airsoft weapons have.  Depending on the combination of internal parts, BB weight, and FPS, your gun may only be able to reach 150-200 feet (which is actually a great range for a standard outdoor weapon).  My SR7, combined with 0.25g BBs, can get an effective range of 125 feet.  This is a bit less than most field-style AEGs and snipers.

Through testing, sighting in, and using the weapon at games, you learn what the range of your weapon is and how to judge the distances you can engage targets at.  Use the known distance of your weapon to move up the field and engage players who are within range.  Never try to fight a smart player who has a longer range gun if you aren’t in a position that gives you an advantage.  These players will just move to a range that suits them, and take you out or force you to move.

(TAC Tip: Practice judging distances with your battle buddies. Have a friend lay out a course with targets (which can be as simple as buckets or pieces of scrap wood) at various distances.  At least a few of these targets should be man-sized. When your friend tells you to start, stand in place and identify the distances to the various targets.  To make it even more difficult, have some of the targets near objects that are larger or smaller than the target, in the shade, or partially around a corner.  This will change the way you perceive distance and make the training harder.)

Move Up

While using my SR7 at a field battle, I chose to move up the flank.  After being engaged by players with weapons that outranged my own (and eventually getting hit), I decided to head back up to that flank and see if I could push up and gain some ground.  Working with my team, I was able to rush up to a good spot, locate an enemy, and take him out at a range that was well within my weapon’s capabilities.  It turned out that he was THE ONLY enemy on that flank and was holding up around 15 players! (Great job to that guy, by the way)

The point of the story is that you need to move up to a position that suits you and your weapon, while helping your team.  Don’t stay behind and try to fight the enemy at a range that you can’t reach.  Use that CQB weapon for the purpose it was made for – fast moving, in-the-enemy’s-face combat!

Be A Team Player

When you have a CQB weapon at an outdoor game, you can’t “do it all” while on the field.  Each weapon (and airsofter) works better in different environments and situations.  Use the strengths of a team to outweigh the weakness of individuals.

Focus on directing teammates and their weapons to achieve the goal of that specific game or scenario.  Snipers can stay 15+ feet behind other teammates and provide overwatch while being protected from enemy operators with higher ROF (Rate Of Fire) weapons.  Operators with CQB guns can focus on being breach-and-assault elements for buildings or bunkers on the field.  Again, make the weapon work for you and your team.


Never be afraid to take a CQB gun to an outdoor field.  Just go to the field, learn the terrain, and be a tactical airsofter.  You’ll be a great operator if you adapt to the environment and avoid being concerned that your weapon will slow you down.  Let me know what you think is the best way to play at an outdoor field with a CQB gun in the comments!